Chandrataal

Ultimate road trip guide from Manali to Spiti Valley

Snow-clad mountains sprinkled with hints of green and brown, vast valleys dotted with huts rammed with earthen walls and laced with colorful prayer flags, restless rivers dancing around in the meadows, swelling and narrowing, untamed by the laws of humans. Ever wondered if such a picturesque view exists for real? If yes, Spiti Valley is where you should plan your next visit. Read along to plan the perfect itinerary from Manali to Spiti Valley. The blog details all essentials including itinerary, places to visit and things to remember.

Spiti Valley

The mountain desert area of Spiti in Himachal Pradesh, enclosed between lofty ranges and irrigated by the Spiti River, separates the Indian mainland from Tibet. One is mesmerized by the variety this valley has to offer, from the vast and beautiful landscapes to some of the most ancient monasteries to traditional culture and extremely simple and hospitable people. Every tiny spec about this place makes one fall in love with Spiti.

Welcome to Spiti Valley

Which route is best for reaching Spiti?

My friends and I had booked a package of 10 days, 9 nights trip from Incredible Spiti during the month of August. The best part about Incredible Spiti is that, they seldom allow more than 10 people in a group. A detailed description of the trip including the itinerary, things to keep, and some general information is available on their website. They are also easily accessible on WhatsApp once your package is confirmed.

Manali to Spiti Valley

We took the Manali – Kunzum Pass – Kaza route to reach Spiti.

Pros:

  1. Shorter Distance: The Manali to Spiti route is shorter, covering around 200 km, making it a quicker option for travelers.
  2. Adventure: The route includes the thrilling Rohtang Pass and Kunzum Pass, offering breathtaking views and an adrenaline-filled journey.

Cons:

  1. Road Conditions: The terrain is rough and challenging, especially between Rohtang and Kunzum Pass, requiring skilled driving. Not to mention the long traffic jams near Rohtang Pass during peak season.
  2. Limited Accessibility: This route is open only from late June to October due to snow, making it a seasonal option.

Shimla to Spiti Valley

One can also explore the other route to Spiti which is through Shimla – Kinnaur – Kaza.

Pros:

  1. Gradual Altitude Gain: This route allows for better acclimatization, reducing the risk of altitude sickness.
  2. Cultural Experience: It passes through scenic towns like Rampur, Nako, and Tabo, giving travelers a chance to explore Spiti’s rich culture and heritage.

Cons:

  1. Longer Distance: The Shimla route spans approximately 430 km and takes 2–3 days, requiring more time and planning.
  2. Weather Challenges: The route can be prone to landslides, especially during the monsoon season, affecting travel plans.

A Day-by-Day Travelogue

Now, without further ado, let me give you some quick details of our trip:

Day 1 – Reach Manali

We took an overnight bus to Manali from Gurgaon. The government buses, Himachal Road Transport Corporation (HRTC) are generally on time and take around 12-14 hours, including stops in between. In Manali, Incredible Spiti had already made a reservation for the group at a guest house named Dragon Inn, in Old Manali. We had a day to lay back and get acquainted with other people in the group, before starting the super exciting and strenuous journey from Manali to Spiti valley.

Places to visit – Local market in Manali is a paradise for shopaholics. One can find a variety of woolen apparel including sweaters, jackets, caps, gloves, socks, shades, shoes, etc. here. And if you are good at bargaining you might end up getting good quality stuff at an extremely cheap price.

Places to eat – The Lazy Dog! We found this restaurant/café close to our hotel in Old Manali. It’s a peaceful place with a great view and superb ambiance. They have an outside seating arrangement where the music from the restaurant coupled with the sound of the river, makes it more soothing. They serve lip-smacking dishes of Italian cuisine and the service is also very prompt.

Day 2 – Manali to Kaza

This day will be entirely devoted to traveling to Kaza – a town situated at an altitude of approximately 12,000 feet above sea level and rightly known as the basecamp of Spiti. The journey from Manali to Spiti Valley, specifically to Kaza, takes around 14 hours. It is advisable to start early in the day to avoid unnecessary traffic.

Day 3 – Stay in Kaza (Acclimatization)

A halt for a day at Kaza is more of a necessity than leisure. It helps our body acclimatize to the dry and harsh weather of the valley. Also, if you are planning to trek to the villages nearby (as we did), it is advisable to take good rest and be prepared with all your essentials.

You can devote this day in exploring the small town of Kaza, primarily the market and cafés.

Places to eat – Himalayan café and Sol café are a must-visit. One unique product that you will find in a couple of shops, is Sea Buck Thorn, a local berry that grows on the river shores. The product is available in the market in different variants like juice, jam, or even chocolate bars. The musty sour tang of the berries may not suit everyone’s taste buds but needless to say, are a rich source of Vitamin C and have plethora of health advantages.

Places to visit –

Chicham Bridge

One of the Asia’s highest bridge

Key monastery

The biggest monastery of the valley, also a training center for Lamas

Kibber

On our way back from the monastery, we had lunch in a small village called Kibber. This place was nothing less than a paradise and while we were there, we experienced something bewitching – The first rain of the season. The café which was surrounded by tangerine mountains and huge fields of paddy and peas, started looking even more minuscule, with a chorus of grey clouds paving its way towards the valley and soaking it’s myriad with the shower. We left for Kaza in time, while the rain still followed us and reached our homestay just before the town was engulfed by a rough sandstorm followed by a mild shower.

At night, since the sky was completely clear, we experienced one of the most beautiful sights. The sky was studded with bright and shining stars – different sizes and shades. We could also recognize the tortuous and tattered band of the Milky Way shining splendidly against the unfathomable blackness of the sky. What an amazing start to an equally amazing trip of Spiti Valley!!

Day 4 – Hike to Komic via Hikkim from Kaza

Langza

Left Kaza after having a delicious Spitian Breakfast of momos at our guesthouse, around 9 AM. The secret mantra of our group was – “Breakfast sharp at 8 AM. Leave at 9 AM”. This is how disciplined you ought to be in those 10 days of the trip. We had a ride in our traveler till Langza, a remote village situated at an altitude of 14,500 feet above sea level that houses a massive statue of Lord Buddha. The trek to Komic started from here.

The trek from Langza to Komic takes 4-5hours in total, covering an altitude of 3000 feet upwards and is divided into two halves. An upward hike from Langza to Hikkim followed by another one from Hikkim to Komic. The trek till Hikkim posed greater obstacles for us due to its steep ascent.

Hikkim

Situated at a height of 14,400 feet, Hikkim has the world’s highest post office. Unfortunately, we arrived at Hikkim on a Sunday, and the post office was closed. But we still made sure to write a handful of postcards for our near and dear ones and gave them to the shopkeeper right across the post office.

Komic

We finally reached Komic and what a beauty it was. The landscape was all vivid colors, each as fresh as a new painting. A huge patch of brilliant green on one side contrasted by the brown of the lofty peaks on the other. The red monastery, standing fortified on a highland with a glowing gold shrine on top. A handful of small white mud houses below, laced with colorful prayer flags. Famed as the highest motorable village in Asia, Komic is situated at an altitude of 15,500 feet. This village has a population of around 100-150 including the monks.

We stayed at Tapan’s guesthouse in Komic and were completely flabbergasted by his hospitality. His house was one of those, build with mud and framed with colorful prayer flags. It had three huge-sized rooms and one dining area. People in Spiti Valley are extremely hard-working. With no network, their entire day is spent in running household chores, rearing cattle and taking care of their guests.

We spent the day walking around in the village – socializing with the villagers, hiking up to the monastery nearby and wrapping it up by having a delicious supper at our guesthouse.

Day 5 – Hike from Komic to Demul

We were set to trek to Demul after our first day at Komic. By 9 AM, everyone was ready and excited for the journey. Packing essentials into small bags, we left the rest of our belongings in the traveler, which was to meet us directly at our accommodation in Demul. Barely five minutes into the trek, it began drizzling. The thin air and slippery terrain made it increasingly challenging, with barren landscapes and muddy paths adding to the struggle. Given the adverse weather and the 3-hour trek ahead, our guide decided to abandon the plan.

Disappointed, we boarded the traveler. While some of us, including me, were upset at missing the trek, others struggling to catch their breath silently thanked the rain for the reprieve. However, the rain soon turned from a blessing to a challenge. Shortly after starting, the inevitable happened—a tyre got jammed deep in the mud. We all got out in the rain to push, managing after 40 exhausting minutes to free the vehicle.

But the relentless downpour made further travel impossible. We decided to return to Komic, only to face yet another setback. On the narrow, slippery roads, the driver’s attempt to reverse ended with the traveler stuck again, this time precariously near the edge of a cliff. Exhausted, soaked, and with no other option, we left the traveler as it was and trekked back to Komic, praying it wouldn’t tumble off the cliff.

Finally the rain stopped at around 4 PM. Our guide and driver went to take the vehicle with the help of few locals and were successful in bringing back the traveler safely.

In a nutshell, we had to spend another day in Komic.

Day 6 – Lalung Khas

Two days in Komic were not so much of a disappointment for me. Although, some people faced breathing challenges rarely, we enjoyed the classic Spitian food and the jaw-dropping panoramic views from the guesthouse. After bidding farewell to this village, we started our journey for Lalung. The path for trek from Komic to Lalung had become very dangerous after such heavy rains. So trekking was obviously not an option. It took us hardly 1/1.5 hours to reach Lalung, where we again had a beautiful guesthouse to ourselves. We visited the Lalung monastery during the day, said to be one of the earliest monasteries in Spiti Valley. Once you reach the monastery, do ask any local/your guide about the history of the monastery. I bet that each of them will have slightly different versions of the story to tell but any story will be as interesting as the other.

You can spend the rest of the day meeting locals, shopping postcards at a café nearby or soaking in the fresh vibe of this village.

Day 7 – Dhankar Monastery and head back to Kaza

We left for Dhankar monastery. Dhankar monastery, situated at 13000 feet is built on an edge overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin rivers. Surrounded by plenty of barren mountains, Dhankar is a place for those who seek true tranquility.

Dhankar Monastery

For all the trek lovers, this place also has a trek to Dhankar lake which roughly takes around 30 mins for a local.

Disclaimer – This trek is extremely steep and you might be deeply inclined to come back mid-way. It took us around 45mins to reach the lake but approximately an hour of breathless hiking from Dhankar monastery on a narrow trail will take you to the top of the hill, where you will be greeted with a splendid view of Dhankar lake. Crystal clear water, barren/snow capped hills as a backdrop (depending on what time of the year you go), and fluffy clouds reflecting in the lake – this is a treat for any photographer!

After spending half the day at Dhankar, we headed back to our base camp, Kaza. We were so happy to finally arrive at Kaza, where the BSNL sims had some network. Almost everyone started calling their parents the moment we reached the guesthouse. The valley had experienced the worst rains of the season, and it had left our parents distressed.

Day 8 – Tabo

This day was dedicated to exploring the oldest and most famous monastery in the Spiti Valley. Tabo, situated at approximately 10,000 feet above sea level is roughly 48 km (1hr drive) away from Kaza.

Standing serenely in the cold and rocky Tabo Valley, this ancient monastery shows amazing architectural integrity and spiritual richness. The monastery, founded more than thousand years ago, is famous for its exquisite murals and sculptures. Above Tabo monastery there are caves and cliff like structures which are used by the monks for meditation. The monastery has no light of its own and closes right before the sunset. This is done to preserve the age long natural colour of the paintings and murals. This, historically significant site is preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Day 9 – Chandra Taal

The final leg of our journey was a visit to Chandratal. On the way from Manali to Kaza, Batal serves as an important stopover. After crossing the Chandra River at Batal, a diversion splits the road—one leading to Kunzum Top and Kaza in Spiti Valley, while the other winds deeper into Chandra Valley toward Chandratal. On our return from Kaza, we paused at Batal for refreshments.

A must-visit here is the famous Chandra Dhaba, fondly known as ‘Chacha-Chachi ka Dhaba,’ run by the kind-hearted Dorje Bodh and his wife, Hishe Chhomo, for over 45 years. Their warmth and hospitality are unmatched, and their rajma chawal and kadhi chawal are simply delightful. It’s a stop you shouldn’t miss!

After enjoying a hearty meal, we continued to Chandratal, reaching the lake around 4 PM. Vehicles aren’t allowed near the lake, so we walked about 10 minutes from the parking area. The sight that greeted us was beyond imagination—Chandratal’s serene blue waters, surrounded by vibrant green fields and towering tangerine mountains, left us in awe. With just two hours before sunset, when tourists are required to leave, we soaked in every bit of this breathtaking natural wonder.

Suggestion – Make sure to take a round of the entire lake (‘parikrama’ as our guide called it and almost mandated it for everyone in the group to do it). The other end of the lake is no less than a window wallpaper. We took a complete round of the lake, stopped at different places to click pictures, sat back and relaxed, and observed the reflection of the mountains and clouds on the clear water, and still all of that could not satiate our souls. We had to leave the lake site by 6 PM and went for our camps which were located a little downhill.

Day 10 – Manali

Time flies by like an arrow, and here we were in Manali, sipping hot drinks and relishing the memories we created with our newfound friends from almost all over the country. It was the last day of our trip. After exploring the market and relaxing in a café, we returned to our guesthouse early, as it was still raining in Manali, and we were all extremely tired. The next day, after bidding farewell to our organizers and group members, we began our journey back to Gurgaon, cherishing the incredible experiences from our time in Manali to Spiti Valley.

Things to remember

  1. Since the journey from Manali to Spiti Valley involves a steep ascent over a short period, it’s essential to start taking Diamox daily from the first day of the trip. This will help prevent AMS, bleeding nose, nausea, or headaches caused by the sudden altitude change.
  2. Avoid consumption of alcohol completely
  3. Have a day’s layover at Kaza to acclimatize
  4. Incredible Spiti has various packages to choose from. We chose the hike package, you should opt based your fitness levels
  5. If you wish to hike, a good pair of trekking shoes will be a savior
  6. Stay hydrated throughout the trip
  7. While hiking, take small steps, control your breathing, and avoid long halts in between
  8. Get a Jio postpaid sim. It will work in Kaza

As I bid farewell to the mesmerizing landscapes of Spiti Valley and retraced my journey back to Manali, I carried with me not just the memories of towering mountains, pristine rivers, and starry nights but also a deep sense of awe and gratitude. The journey from Manali to Spiti Valley was more than just a road trip—it was an experience that tested my limits, rewarded my curiosity, and connected me with nature in its rawest form. Spiti’s rugged beauty and serene charm will forever hold a special place in my heart, calling me back for yet another adventure. Until next time, Spiti!

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Hi, I’m Kamelia

A Bengali born in West Bengal and raised in Uttar Pradesh, I've always had a deep passion for exploring new places. My travels across India have shaped my love for discovery, and my work in the US gave me the opportunity to dive into a completely new world of landscapes, cultures, and experiences. After a decade of balancing my 9-to-5 with my passion for travel, I returned to India, now driven by a desire to share my stories and inspire others to seek out hidden gems, plan meaningful journeys, and embrace travel with an open heart.
This space is a collection of my travel tales, hoping to help you uncover your next adventure!